What Travel Writers Say

Spain Lives In Puebla, Mexico's City of Angels

© By Habeeb Salloum
  We left Mexico City, the largest urban centre in the world, for the city of Puebla, and Manuel, our guide, entertained us with jokes until we reached the heart of Puebla, the most Spanish of all the Mexican cities, reported to have been built due to a vision. Apparently, Julían Garcés, the Bishop of Tlaxcala, dreamt that he saw angels leading him to a beautiful valley indicating where to build a city. Following the divine directions, he travelled to the valley and founded the city, which accordingly were known as 'Pueblo of the Angels.'
     The 2,134 m (7,000 ft) high Cuetlaxcoapan plains where Puebla is located is believed to be the place where maize was first grown, hence, the heartland of the Olmeca and Totonaca cultures. When Conquistadors arrived, they created Puebla in 1531 as a fortress town at a strategic point on the Veracruz - Mexico City route.
     Overlooked by three imposing volcanoes, Puebla, 120 km (75 mi) from Mexico City, with 3 million inhabitants, is the fourth largest city in the country and the capital of the state with the same name. It quickly grew into an important Spanish-Catholic town and eventually became a colonial jewel, today the pride of modern Mexico. The city's greatest historical event occurred May 5, 1862 when a makeshift Mexican force, led by General Ignacio Zaragoza, now the town's hero, repelled a French army sent by Napoleon III. Traditional Building
     Religious structures, the residue of Spanish centuries, saturate the old city. Thousands of colonial buildings and at least 70 churches overwhelm visitors with their appealing architecture. The city, a living museum, has more chapels, churches, convents and monasteries per square mile then any other place in the country. At the centre of all these renowned buildings is the Historic Town Centre, spreading out from Zócalo, the town's main square, bedecked with exquisitely arranged gardens.
     These ornate edifices, topped by a monumental cathedral, incorporate all the architectural styles of the colonial period including gothic, Herreriano, Neoclassical, Plateresque and Renaissance. However, above all, the city is noted, for its idiosyncratic Baroque structures built from red brick and grey stone, in a variety of forms. Many are embellished with an elaborate white stucco, an 18th century popular ornamentation called AlfeZique, from the Arabic (al-fanid - sugar paste), a candy made from egg whites and sugar. This is best reflected in the exquisite and striking AlfeZique House.
     Most of these eye-catching structures are decorated with the attractive hand-painted Talavera tiles, the symbol of Puebla. Spanish settlers from the Talavera de la Reina region in Spain, famous for the manufacture of ceramics and tiles, introduced by the Arabs to Spain, brought the art with them. Today, the city is noted for these Arab-Spanish influenced tiles with which many of the colonial buildings are adorned. An art par excellence, they are to be found decorating both old and new: church domes, façades, fountains, kitchens, rooftops, and many inside and outside walls.
     The historic section has been largely restored and enjoys a prosperous and appealing aura. A stroll through the streets of this section gives visitors a wonderful opportunity to admire the architectural styles of the buildings with their decorative combination of tiles, wrought iron grills, and white plastic embellishments and reliefs.

Talavera Ceramics  Talavera Ceramics  Talavera For Sale  Talavera For Sale  Tiled Doorway  Traditional Tiled Building 

     Visiting 'Puebla of the Angels,' a town delineated by fantasy, is to travel back in time to rediscover an historic accumulation of splendid attractions. For more than four centuries, the city has carefully preserved its colonial aura inherited from its former days of splendour. Without doubt, it has well earned its designations as 'Shrine of America' and, since 1987, a 'World Heritage Site.'

  1. The official Mexican currency is the peso currently trading at around 13.25 pesos to a US dollar - 11.4 pesos to a CDN dollar.
  2. Puebla's tourist facilities are excellent; the city is safe; and the climate all year-round is very agreeable.
  3. Puebla is noted for its cuisine; visitors should try: cemita, toasted bread rolls with cheese, chilli, chicken and vegetables; camotes, a local fruit made from sweet potatoes and fruit; and Pan árabe taco, Puebla's improvement on the taco. An excellent place to try local dishes is at the Fonda Santa Clara - a fine reasonably priced eating-place.
  4. When you leave Mexico there is a 'Departure Tax' of about $18.00 US per person, but the tax is usually included in your airline ticket.
Important Sites:

Museo Amparo - housed in an 18th century building, it contains an extraordinary collection of Prehispanic art.
Iglesia de San Francisco - has a beautiful churrigueresque façade.
Casa de los MuZecos - exhibits the early use of Talavera ceramics to decorate the outside of buildings with lay themes.
Capilla del Rosario - part of the Iglesia de Santo Domingo, it constitutes the greatest achievement of the Baroque art in New Spain and is classified as one of the wonders of the world.
Uriarte Talavera Factory - an authentic ceramic and tile factory, founded in 1824, it is a great tourist stopping point.
Santa Rosa Museum - boasts a splendid cloister and one of the most beautiful fountains in Puebla. Also, its Talavera-tiled kitchen is a favoured tourist attraction.
Barrio del Artista - a picturesque colonial corner with studios of artists.
Principal Theatre - considered the oldest theatre in the Americas.
African Safari - a drive-through Safari Park containing a wide variety of wild animals.

Habeeb Salloum has authored numerous books, his latest: Arab Cooking On A Saskatchewan Homestead: Recipes And Recollections - winner of the Cuisine Canada and The University of Guelph's Silver Canadian Culinary Book Awards in Winnipeg in 2006. He contributes to Forever Young (Oakville), Contemporary Review (Oxford, UK), Canadian World Traveller (Quebec) and the Toronto Star.

Photo Credits
Habeeb Salloum

If you go
Puebla, Mexico
as seen on
In Canada contact the Mexican Tourism Board
2 Bloor St. West, Suite 1502, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3E2.
E-mail: toronto@visitmexico.com. Web: www.visitmexico.com
Also Toll free number: 1-800-44 MEXICO.
or E-mail: contact@visitmexico.com;
In the U.S.A. 375 Park Avenue, Floor 19, Suite 1905, New York, NY 10152, USA.
Tel: (212) 308 2110. Fax: (212) 308 9060.
E-mail: newyork@visitmexico.com
Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puebla
Wikitravel: http://wikitravel.org/en/Puebla

What's happening, money, distance, time?
Media Guide: http://www.abyznewslinks.com/
Currency conversion: http://www.xe.com/ucc/
Distance calculator: http://www.indo.com/distance/
Time zone converter: http://www.timezoneconverter.com/

Transportation, visas, health, maps and temperature
Airlines (Wikipedia): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_airlines
Embassies/Consulates (Embassy World): http://www.embassyworld.com/
Health precautions (WHO): http://www.who.int/ith/en/
Google interactive map: http://maps.google.com/
Temperature (Temperature World): http://www.temperatureworld.com/


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